sewing tables/cabinets

[Barbara C.]

We have just moved to a new home that has a slightly larger room for sewing. I want to set up more than one machine at a time. I do have ezi sew table that I'm currently using. Does anyone have suggestions for other inexpensive tables and cabinets where the machine is set down into it? I've looked at a lot on line but would like opinions on what others have found to be good.

[Barbara C.]

Family and friends asked me to keep my eyes peeled for used sewing machine cabinets. So far, I've purchased three--one for $10 at garage sale that came with a beautiful "like new" Kenmore sewing machine, and two at the Salvation Army for about $25 each. I'm lucky to have a Salvation Army store nearby, such that I can check regularly.

For my cutting table, I purchased two stock kitchen base cabinets--one with all drawers and one with a door below a drawer--which I topped with a stock 3' X 8' solid wood flat door. It's a perfect size and looks good too. I selected pretty hardware for the drawer pulls. When I could catch a great sale, I also purchased a three-piece 35" x 70" OLFA self-healing rotary cutting mat to place on top of the door.

[Barbara C.]

These definitely sound like good ideas especially the kitchen cabinets. I could use the storage space since I can't hang things on the wall!

[Barbara C.]

I have the SewEzi table also. I have a 6ft long banquet table on one side and card table in front of the machine. I had to put risers on the card table to bring it flush with the SewEzi table. The banquet table is the same height.
I have large square...and it works do large machine quilting on it.

While I would have liked a sewing cabinet...I find I like the ease of taking my machine down and moving it to another spot in the house. If I want to machine quilt in the living room while watching TV with my husband...I can.
The set up also is nice if I need an extra table for company...or if one of my sewing gals comes for a 'sew-in' day.

Other places to look for cabinets...if you belong to a guild ask around perhaps someone has one to sell. Inquire at your LQS...in fact our shop has a place to list things for sale...one woman even had some of her stash listed because she was downsizing!!
If you know someone handy....have them make one for you. Eleanor Burns did a show on how to make a sewing table out of a table.
Directions are found here:
http://www.quiltinaday.com/eleanoran...y/freepattern/

Scroll to the bottom of the page...look at the right of the screen...
It is next to the block instructions of Hands All Around.

FW

[Shirley M.]

I saw the instructions for the farmhouse table on one of Eleanor's TV shows and recently started searching for the info, but couldn't find it......so THANKS so much for the link. I now have something I can put in my hubby's hands on how to construct the well for the machine!!

BY THE WAY--I have one of those plexiglass extensions that fits an old machine (has 4 or 5" adjustable legs..can't remember the brand). I want to RECUT it to fit the bed of my Bernina so I can use it as a new insert on a Robert's sewing table.
Does anyone know how to go about cutting plexiglass and getting a smooth edge? Hope this makes sense.

ALSO - If anyone has a Robert's sewing table, do you have a problem with a whobbly vibration when you sew at medium speed? Any ideas on how to fit it? I've put pads under the machine and on the flow under the legs. Helped some.

THANKS YA'LL
Shirley

[Shirley M.]

One of my yahoo groups for the Bernina just discussed cutting plexiglass to make an insert. It's the group that covers the 200, 430,440,630,640 and 730. There is a very knowledgeable individual there who explained it in great detail. I'm not sure if I'm able to get the information over here but I'll try.

This next part was copied and pasted from the Bernina yahoo group

"Well, I suspect that most of the folks on this list will not have the
woodworking workshop that I've accumulated, so I'll talk about it two
ways - how it can be done and how I actually did it.

In the "how can I do it without getting a second mortgage on the
house" mode -- purchase a blank piece that's already cut to size so
you don't have to worry about cutting it out of a large piece.
Purchase from a dealer who knows how to do more than simply ring up a
cash register and tell that person what you're doing and that having
the external dimensions be correct are important. (as an aside: the
folks who sell me plywood have two saws - a standard panel saw and a
really good table saw. When I purchased the wood for Carol's cabinet,
they used the table saw and the cuts they made were dead on)

Purchase a coping saw - this is a couple of dollar item - and a pack
of fine tooth blades to cut the inside. Choose the one that has the
largest throat you can find. With blades, the rule of thumb is that at
least three saw teeth should be in contact with the workpiece. So, for
a piece of acrylic that is 1/4 inch thick, you'll need at least 12
teeth per inch; choose one between fifteen and twenty teeth per inch.
A better alternative, if you have access to one, is a scroll saw with
a deep throat. But, I wouldn't purchase one just to cut a new insert.

Purchase a good quality medium tooth file (Nicholson brand is good,
the no-name Chinese imports are not).

Don't remove the plastic or paper covers from the acrylic yet. You'll
mark the pattern you want to cut on it. Place the acrylic on a table
good face down. Take the current insert that you have and place it on
top of the new acrylic, top down and touching the acrylic. Trace the
outline onto the acrylic. This is what you'll cut around.

Cut the acrylic along but just inside the line. Use the file to
smooth and open the cut-out to size. Also, you'll want to file the
rounded corners of the outside edges of acrylic. If you're making an
insert for the machines with the CB hook, mark the location of the
bobbin door and file a 45 degree bevel to within 1/16 of an inch of
the top edge to provide clearance so that you can easily open the
bobbin door.

Now - How I actually did it. Works if you have access to a good
woodworking shop --

You'll need a table saw, scroll saw, and variable speed router and a
strip sander. For the router, you'll need a bit with a 1/2 inch
diameter and a 1/2 inch OD bearing and also a 45 degree chamfering
bit, again with a bearing. The sander should have a fine belt; the
scroll saw should use the same type of blade that the coping saw has.
For a table saw, use a carbide blade with closely spaced teeth. Also,
use a zero clearance table saw insert.

I bought a piece of 1/4 inch thick acrylic about an inch larger than
necessary and cut it to size. I then used a radius template to draw
the rounded outside corners, but did not yet sand them. Next with the
top side of the acrylic face down, I determined where the cutout
should be located and clamped the existing insert to it and drew the
line defining the cutout just a if I were to manually cut it out.

Next, I took a table saw and set the rip fence to allow making a cut
about 1/8 -> 3/16 inch inside of the line and cut up to about 1/4
inch. These cuts don't run the length of the insert, but stop about
1/4 inch from the "end" of their portion of the cutout. I then used
the scroll saw to cut the "ends" and most of the scrap dropped free.
Now, to clean up

Next, I turned the "new" insert face up. The insert sets the bottom of
the actual surface about 1/8 inch above the surface of the acrylic
that I want to clean up, so I was able to simply clamp it, right side
up to the insert being built and positioned it so that the cutout
matched the one I'd drawn on the Acrylic. Then I mounted the 1/2 inch
router bit in the router and adjusted the height so that the bearing
would ride on the edge of the original insert. Then, I set the router
speed to minimum and cut the new insert's cutout to size. The router
leaves a smooth edge that requires no sanding.

Once that was done, I sanded off the corners along the radius lines
I'd drawn and checked that the insert would fit the cabinet. I then
mounted the machine, slipped on the new insert, and checked that
everything fit. I also marked out the location of the bobbin door. I
removed the insert and routed a 45 degree chamfer that left about 1/16
inch of material at the top side of the insert.

Then, I washed the new insert with soap and water to get rid of all of
the plastic dust that clung to the insert due to static charge. That
completed the job. It took about an hour and a half including the time
spent thinking about how to do the job.

Hope this helps.

Jerry Jankura
So many toys.... So little time...."




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Messages in this topic (13)
1b. Re: Acrylic Insert for Cabinet[/i]

[Shirley M.]

Wow, Jerry. You really know your stuff. I'll pass the info on to hubby to figure out. He has a pretty well equipped workshop.

Sounds like you started from a new piece of plexiglass. I suppose I could use the same method/tools to modify the custom plexiglass extension I already own. I looked it up. It's called "Sew Steady Sewing Maching table". (http://www.sewingsupplywarehouse.com/1acblsstlsd.html)

The cutout on it is already the correct width. Just need to make the opening DEEPER to accommodate my Bernina. I have the 440QE.

Then the outside perimeter would need to be cut down to fit the opening on my table.

Did anyone in your group every try doing that? Quilters are so inventive...

Shirley

[/url]

[Shirley M.]

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