Embroidery Software - What's the best

[Jo H.]

One of the problems I've had when I re size a pattern down is that somewhere in the stitch out all of a sudden the machine gums up and there is tons of thread on the backside of the project. I've only noticed this when I resize, so maybe I am resizing too much? Sandi in FL

Remember when I said that all softwares can be good. Well they can but not all softwares have great brains when you are asking them to help you. I've used many different embroidery softwares and an awful lot of them are not that smart when you are asking them to resize. Some will resize but not adjust the stitch count. So let's say you start off with a design that is 5 inches by 7 inches and you downsize it 50% (which you shouldn't do in most softwares)[there are exceptions to this depending on the software you are using and the type of file format].

If you started off with 20,000 stitches before reducing the size and you end up with 20,000 stitches after reducing it, you are trying to cram too many stitches in too small of an area. You will end up with a whole host of problems of which just one of them would be "bullet proof" embroidery. :x And that's if you can actually get it to stitch at all.

I can reduce a design by 50% successfully because my software converts the design into objects instead of individual stitches. However, I may still need to do some modifications on it before it is in stitchable condition. For example, if there were satin stitches in the design that were 1 mm wide and I reduce it by 50 percent, that satin stitch is now 1/2 mm wide which is TOO NARROW. The width of an embroidery needle is approx. .73 of a mm so if I try to stitch the reduced design without any tweaks, I will be essentually asking the needle to come up and down in less than the width of the embroidery needle. Guess what -- I'm making lots of knots and a big mess!

Before stitching the design I would need to edit those columns and make them wider by at least .50 of a mm. You may still not like the design even with the modifications.

I invest in 2 hours per week in continuing education and have done this for the last 6 years. Sounds crazy huh? And for most folks it would be. My goal is and has always been to learn how thread reacts to all the different fabrics, how I can get the most realistic (almost painterly) look out of an embroidery machine needle and thread, and how to best recreate my customer logos so that it looks the most professional regardless of what it is stitched on.

So continue to do what you are doing now even though you may not get the results you wanted or expected. Nothing replaces experience including education -- although it is very important as you experiment. You must do trial and error and see what happens. Sometimes the problem will be the fabric you are using, sometimes it may be the way the fabric was hooped, the thread you are using, the type of stablizer chosen or simply the design was digitized poorly.

In the beginning I blamed every disaster on myself. Don't do as I did. Once you get more experience, you will learn that it is not always operator error. My best advice is to start off with using quality embroidery designs so you can immediately eliminate that potential problem. There are some free designs that are good, but you won't know that in the beginning so please use the best designs right off the bat so you know that it isn't a design problem.

I will post a picture on my blog soon of one of my newest customer's logo. I'm not sure why they decided to change and come to me, but they gave me one of the jackets that had been done by the previous embroidery company. After reviewing their logo for the back of the jacket (it was just letters but they were using a very unique font), I told them that I would love to work with them but the font needed changes in order for them to get the best quality. I digitized the lettering with my changes and the customer was very pleased. I'll post the before and after pictures of their logo so you can see for yourself the importance of column width and abiding by a few embroidery rules.

Geez...I'm rambling again. Just tell me to 'hush' JoJo. :wink:

[Jo H.]

Jojo, please don't hush!! This is all great info and I know I really appreciate it. Your explanation sure helps me understand why some of those gum ups occurred. It makes sense now. Thanks Sandi in FL

[Susan B.]

Jojo, please just keep talking! Your perspective is appreciated. I'm curious about your favorite needles and stablizers for different fabrics, but do we need a new forum thread?

To follow up on a previous question, which I had to clarify when I got home & tried something that wouldn't work, I save in .art50, but have to write to the machine (Bernina 730) in .art which is v4.

[Diane O.]

JoJo,

Keep talking and rambling all you want... it's very informative and something that I think most of us who do machine embroidery want and need to know.

Diane in Colorado Springs

[Diane O.]

Ramblings? I have not heard any ramblings yet. All I have read is great information that is actually making sense and explains many things. So JoJo, never stop, ever, never!

[Diane O.]

That goes for me too. Never stop. I have so much to learn about my machine. I just have the attachment and not the software yet and I don't know what to buy yet. So much to absorb......keep it up for all of us Jo Jo......

[Jo H.]

So that I don't provide a design too large, what is the largest hoop size you have?

JoJo

[Jo H.]

I don't know about others, but I have the small, medium and mega hoop. I have the Bernina 440 QE. Any help you can teach would really be helpful. Nan in Massena, NY

[Jo H.]

[I have the same machine and hoops...

[Jo H.]

The largest hoop I have will do a 5x7 project with my Singer Futura. I guess I will really have to decide about getting the embroidery unit on the Bernina if I want to do bigger projects. I sure hope my son gets his talent grant this year!! Keep your fingers toes and whatever else crossed for him. Sandi in FL

[Jo H.]

Ok, my manual states the sizing of the largest hoop is 10 1/4 X 6 1/4 but when I measure the inside dimensions it comes out as 12 1/8 X 7 1/2. Is this because they are listing the size as the useable sewing area?

[Jo H.]

My largest hoop on my Janome11000SE is 8x8.

Maggie in E. Central Illinois

[Jo H.]

I have a medium and a large hoop for the Bernina. The software I have is Vs 5 of the Artista that came with the machine.

[Diane O.]

Ok, my manual states the sizing of the largest hoop is 10 1/4 X 6 1/4 but when I measure the inside dimensions it comes out as 12 1/8 X 7 1/2. Is this because they are listing the size as the useable sewing area?

Yes, the hoop is larger than the sewable area so just measuring the size of your hoop doesn't give you the actual sewing area. If you don't know, or can't find the size of your hoops, an easy way to figure it out, if you machine has the capability to add a basting stitch, sew it out, and measure that. The basting stitch will usually go around the outermost area of the hoop.

Diane in Colorado Springs

[Diane O.]

Dianne, thank you for the info. I figured that was the case. At least the ole noggin is still working right.