Half-size measurements

[Andree B.]

Andree--you go girl!

[Andree B.]

Andree-I would LOVE the PDF's. THANKS!!!
mailto:[email protected]
Tami

[Andree B.]

Got May put together but not quilted yet. I switched two blocks in this group. "L" is a lone star block and "M" is called Mojave Morning (Jinny Beyer from "The Quilter's Album of Patchwork Patterns". Again--thanks to Andree and Annis for their help.

As you can see--small problems with the Lone Star block but after doing it twice--I decided it will have to do. Will have to get the glue and markings off this but I think I will wait until after I do the quilting.

[Andree B.]

I love this Arlene!

It looks great! It's a very nice book, isn't it? Has lots of information. Your "Mojave" block looks fantastic, and I love your colors!
(Actually all your blocks look fantastic)

Andrée

[Andree B.]

Ritzy, I love the look of your block Mojave morning. I bet it would be great as a repeating block.

[Andree B.]

Rosemary--it really makes a difference with fabric used. I did it in only two colors, and while I loved the look of it, it didn't have the same look of radiating as the block I used.

[Andree B.]

PICTURE FRAME

Cutting Instructions:

For the HST: 2 squares 2" x 2" of each color (instructions were missing the green squares)

For the frame: 2 strips 1" x 10" of each color. HOWEVER, if you are like me and wish to give yourself a little room, cut them 1-1/8" x 11". They will be trimmed in step 2.

Background: 1 square 2-1/2" x 2-1/2"

STEP 1:
Make HST and trim them 1-1/2" x 1-1/2".

STEP 2:
Join the strips on the long side, and cut 4 units each 2-1/2". If you cut oversize, then you will have a little leftover, and you will need to trim each unit on the long edge: align the 3/4" mark on the seam, and trim. Repeat on the other long side. Your finished unit will measure 2-1/2" x 1-1/2":





STEP 3:
Center the P on the background. I aligned the vertical line 1 inch from the left edge:





STEP 4 and 5: follow as per instructions.
Your block should measure 4-1/2" x 4-1/2" from raw edge to raw edge.




I still need to blanket-stitch...

[Margo C.]

Andree, I vote for you to design and pattern the next TQS BOM quilt!! :lol: You're doing a fabulous job on patterning it at half size!

Where's the "LIKE" button when you need it???

[Andree B.]

ROAD TO CALIFORNIA

Cutting instructions:
For the 4-patch: 1 strip 1-1/8" x 4-1/2" of each colors (mine are light blue and bright green) HOWEVER, again, if you are like me, you can cut it a little oversize and trim when the 4 patch are sewn (like 1-1/4" x 5")

For the HST: 2 squares 2" x 2" of each color (on my photo - red and light turquoise)
2 squares of each color making the unit with HST - 1-1/8" x 1-1/8" (on my photo - orange and light blue)

STEP 1: Join the strips, and cut into 4 units each measuring 1-1/8" ( or 1-1/4" if you cut oversize initially).

STEP 2: Sew as shown, and press. If you cut oversize, align the 7/8" with the center seam and trim on each side, so that each 4-patch measures 1-3/4" x 1-3/4".




STEP 3: Make the HST and trim them to 1-1/8" x 1-1/8":





STEP 4: as per instructions.

STEP 5: As per instructions. The finished block measure 3" x 3" from raw edge to raw edge.




When the background is sewn, the panel measures 3" x 4-1/2" from raw edge to raw edge.

[Andree B.]

My almost finished block (missing the blanket stitch):

[Andree B.]

OHIO STAR

PANEL SIZE(finished) 4" x 8" BLOCK SIZE (finished) 3" x 3"

Cutting instructions:
For the 4 "hourglass" units:
Color #13 : 2 squares (and not 4) 3" x 3"
Color #1: 1 square (and not 2) 3" x 3"
Color #8: 1 square (and not 2) 3" x 3/

Then:
Color # 8: 4 squares 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" (for the corners)
Color #15: 1 square 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" (for the center)

Background:
2 strips 1" x 3-1/2"
1 strip (and not 2) 1" x 4-1/2"
1 rectangle 4-1/2" x 5"

Step1:
Make 2 HST units (and not 4) with colors #13 and #8, Then make 2 HST units (and not 4) with colors #13 and #1. Continue as per instructions.

Step 2:
As per instructions.

Step 3: Trim units to 1-1/2" x 1-1/2", aligning the 45-degree line on ruler with the diagonal seam, and the 3/4" mark on the center of the unit.




Step 4: as per instructions.

Step 5: Your Ohio block should measure 3-1/2" x 3-1/2".



Then sew the background 1" x 3-1/2" strips to each sides of the block. Press seam allowance toward the background. Add the 1" x 4-1/2" background strip to the top of the block. Press the seam allowance toward the background. Sew the background block 4-1/2" x 5 to the bottom of the block, and press the seam allowance toward the background. The completed panel should measure 4-1/2" x 8-1/2" from raw edge to raw edge.

Step 6: Center the letter "O" side to side on the background rectangle, 1/2" below the seam:

[Andree B.]

My "almost" finished panel (yes, yes, still need to blanket stitch...)

[Andree B.]

NANCY'S BASKET

Panel size (finished) 7" x 3-1/2" BLOCK SIZE (finished) 3-1/2" x 3-1/2"

Cutting instructions:

Basket: 1 rectangle 1-7/8" x 4"
Basket bottom: 1 rectangle 7/8" x 2" ( you may decide to cut oversize (wider) like I did= 1" x 2")
Basket top border: 2 strips 1" x 10-1/2" - one of each color (I did not reduce this measurement, since I will paper-piece this part)
Basket handle: 1 strip 3/8" X 6" cut on the bias (my preferred method is to fold in thirds. If you wish to use another method, then adjust this measurement. The finished width will be 1/8".)

Background:
2 rectangles 7/8" x 1-1/2 (or 1" x 1-1/2" if you cut oversize like I did)
2 squares 1-7/8" x 1-7/8"
1 rectangle 2" x 4"
1 square 4" x 4"

Step 1: As per instructions, using the background 1-7/8" squares.

Step 2 : As per instructions (but I pressed toward the basket - personal preference).

Step 3-4-5: I decided to paper-piece using graph paper every 1/4 inch. I cut the 2 strips in 1-1/2 pieces, and between each round, I cut the excess fabric to leave between 3/8" and 1/2":




Step 6: Trim one edge of the unit, leaving as much as possible (you should have at least between 1" and 1-1/2"). Trim the sides of the unit, to have 1/2" of each color on each side.




The finished unit should be 4":

[Andree B.]

Step 7: as per instructions.

STEP 8: You should trim excess fabric from the top edge of the stripes, 1/2" away from the seam. - but I didn't do it right away...

Step 9: Sew the 7/8" x 1-1/2" background (or 1" x 1-1/2" if oversize) to both sides of the green 7/8" x 2" (or 1" x 2" if oversize) rectangle. Join that unit to the bottom of the basket unit.

If you cut oversize, now would be the time to trim...: Align the seam of the top of the basket with the 1/2" mark on the ruler (you see the extra 1/8" at the bottom: this needs to go...)




STEP 10: Using the appliqué pattern, trace a line 1/4" away from the dotted line, to align the edge of the background fabric:




Continue as per instructions.

Finished block from raw edge to raw edge is 4"`

[Andree B.]

Since I couldn't wait any longer (!!!) to get the correct version of the letter "N", I printed the "close-up" version of the quilt (see blog November 9th 2013) so that the finished block measures 3-1/2 inch.

I cut out the "N" to make a template.





BUT.... When something is "always" done for you, sometimes you tend to forget.... THAT YOU MUST TRACE THE REVERSE SIDE... ops:





My "almost" finished panel measures 4" x 7-1/2" from raw edge to raw edge: