FMQ help

[Edith S.]

I have a question about FMQing. Not sure if I can make my question make sense or not though. When I see quilts at shows or wherever that I like and I look closely at the quilting, I feel like each stitch has definition, you can see each stitch clearly (at close range, of course). But when I quilt on my 440QE , I don't see that same definition. In the past I have tried to get this look by using heavier thread but it still didn't look like I wanted it to. On the hst quilt, I tried using black thread on top and beige in the bobbin, thinking that might make the difference. But no matter how I adjusted the tension, I could not get it to where only the black showed on the front and only the beige showed on the back. So, am I doing something wrong? Or is it perhaps that the quilting that I have seen and like so much was done on a longarm? Do their stitches look differently than stitches done on a domestic machine? I do realize that good quilting takes many, many hours of practice but I don't see how practice is going to change how my stitches look. I would think practice would be for the flow of the stitching and the complexity of the design. Anyone have any insight?

I orignally posted the above paragraph on my TQS blog yesterday. It was suggested that I try the Forum instead. It was also suggested that I post pictures. Don't think that's an option here. I'll try to put some on the blog later.
Thanks.

[Margo C.]

Kalynn, photos would help us understand. You will find instructions for putting photos on the forum here:
http://forum/forum-questions-and-sug...-the-tqs-forum

I'm wondering if you are talking about seeing close-up photos of stitches, verses the real thing? If you click on this photo to see stitches that are enlarged to fill a screen, they will look more "dimensional" because you have zoomed in so close. Here is a photo from a blog about free-motion machine quilting:

http://www.dognamedbanjo.com/2008/08...-of-2-the-bsr/



I'm also wondering if the dimension you are referring to could be because of the batting that was used? A cotton batting will make the surface of the quilt very flat, whereas a wool batting will add some dimension that will make the stitches look different.

You might want to read what Dr. Bob (Superior Threads) has to say about thread tension. It helps to use threads that are the same color so that any difference is not as noticeable.
https://www.superiorthreads.com/educ...-tension-works

[Margo C.]

Thanks Margo, I have watched Dr. Bob's take on tension and I do think I have a good understanding of that. And I have experimented with different threads. But it NEVER occurred to me that it could be the batting! And I have always used either cotton batting with very low loft or I have used the Thermore. I'll bet you are onto something with that suggestion! I can't use wool - highly allergic - but maybe I can experiment with some other types of cotton batting. That was an excellent tutorial on FMQ by the way. I skimmed over some of the comments and was astounded at how many owners didn't know the basics of how to use the BSR. Guess I should be even more thankful than I already am for the great folks at my dealer who made sure I knew how to use it before I took it home. Not that I haven't had to refer to the instructions on occasion.
I have yet to figure out how to post a picture here on the Forum. I suppose I could google that and find a tutorial but I'll bet you already know where one is! hehe! Seriously, you amaze me with your vast knowledge of all things quilty! Thanks so much for being willing to share with the rest of us who aren't quite so savvy!

[Marianne G.]

Interesting that a difference in batting can make a difference to how stitches look. I've been experimenting with different threads but have always used cotton I have bought on the roll at my LQS where I used to live or cotton flannel. I can't use polyester because I get highly charged, ,but I could try wool to see if I see a difference. Thank you for the idea Margo, and also for the link you provided above. I have never gotten on with my BSR but after 6 years continually taking it out if its box - use it - and then shoving it back into the box in frustration I am at least now beginning to understand why it behaves as it does thanks to the input from somebody who knows how an infrared mouse works. I will now go and read what the lady has to say.
Thanks to Kalynn for starting this topic.
Marianne

[Rita C.]

Kalynn, when you click 'post reply' you will find that below the text box that comes up there is a file that says 'upload attachment'. If you click on that it will give you the option to choose a file from your desktop or your photos or somewhere else on your computer. When you choose a file you can then click 'Add the file' and then it will give you an option to 'place in line' so put your mouse to where you want the photo to go and click and you will get a list of numbers and letters for that file. When you are finished typing you can check it in 'Preview' before then clicking 'Submit'. I hope that helps.

As for batting, it's a shame you can't use wool as it is really lovely to use. I have noticed that a lot of the competition quilters use two battings, a cotton and a wool together. Maybe you could use two layers of cotton. Or perhaps there is a cotton/poly blend that gives a higher loft? We don't have much choice here in Ireland. It's either polyester, cotton or wool when you can find it.

[Susan B.]

I feel like each stitch has definition, you can see each stitch clearly (at close range, of course). But when I quilt on my 440QE , I don't see that same definition. perhaps that the quilting that I have seen and like so much was done on a longarm?

Purely opinion, use the same thread on the top and bottom to save yourself a lot of aggravation if the dots showing bother you. Some people think dots are just something to put up with. They drive me nuts. With batting, also consider bamboo, silk, and plastic bottles!!! The plastic bottle batting stitches nicely, but will shadow green through light fabrics. It's easy to get the stitches to sink in the middle because of a bit of loft.

You should see each stitch. Although it is for long-arm machines, try watching the following video. Thread tension adjustment theory is the same. Get the bobbin tension correct, then adjust the top. Get an extra bobbin case if you are not comfortable adjusting your regular one.

At about minute 12, there are excellent up close pictures of good tension and bad tension, and how to fix them.
http://www.handiquilter.com/videos/?id=188

Lots of really good quilters are still quilting on DSM's. You have a great machine.

[Margo C.]

I have yet to figure out how to post a picture here on the Forum.

Click here Kalynn: http://forum/forum-questions-and-sug...-the-tqs-forum

[Margo C.]

Kalynn I am in total agreement with Susan. Was thinking of posting the same thing but she beat me to it :wink: I'm convinced that sewing machines have (for lack of a better word) personalities. I could do the same tension settings, thread, batting and fabric on my Bernina at home and get a different result on the Bernina at the quilt shop when it comes to the thread definition. Although at times it would be nice to use one thread color on top and a different thread color in the bobbin, if I see those dots it'll make me crazy. My solution has been Superior Monopoly in the bobbin when I have had a lot of thread changes, like on Tim and Beth's wedding quilt. I've never had a problem with it in the bobbin either--I just remember to only fill the bobbin three-quarters of the way full and I use a moderate speed instead of flooring it. I used Monopoly in the top and bottom once for a baby quilt that didn't make the quilt look "shiny" and the quilt has been washed many times. Mostly I use the same thread color in the top as the bottom--using Masterpiece in the bobbin when I can.

Blessings,
Jane

[Margo C.]

Thanks to all of you for your advice. I think I'll experiment with different battings and stick to using the same thread top and bottom or either using monopoly.

[Margo C.]

Susan, you mentioned the batting made from recycled plastic bottles... have you used it frequently? How would you say it drapes compared to a low-loft cotton batting?

Anyone else tried this batting and have an opinion?

[Susan B.]

Kaylyn, I have not used the recycled batting frequently. I could send you a square of it if you like. Email me your address if you want it.

[Susan B.]

Susan, that would be great if you really don't mind. I couldn't get the private message email to go for some reason. But Renata is so sweet! She just called me and she is going to send it on for me! Aren't quilters just the greatest!

[Susan B.]

I'll get it out tomorrow!

[Susan B.]

thanks!

[Susan B.]

I have used Quilters Dream Green Batting. It's made from recycled plastic bottles and has a light green color. It quilts up just like their regular white 'virgin' poly batting - soft and a bit fluffy, with great stitch definition. It's loftier than flat cotton batting. It drapes and washes well. They say that the only difference between the recycled and the virgin is just that - once the bottles are turned into poly fibers, it's made just like regular Quilters Dream poly batting.

If you have not used QD battings, they are wonderful. The poly esp is nothing like the scratchy stiff uneven poly's you get from Walmart or JoAnn's in a bag. QD poly is needlepunched just like cotton is and almost even feels and acts like cotton. Whether is is the white or the green recycled, it's great!