steam a seam 2 applique layers

[Hannelore N.]

I just made a 30 x 40 quilt that is all applique and many areas have up to 3 layers. A friend of mine said I needed to use steam a seam 2 which I did. The quilt is quite stiff. I am wondering what type of needle I need to use to quilt this. I am having trouble with skipped stitches and gummed up needle. I went back and steamed the heck out of it trying to make sure the glue is really melted. I have sulky blendable thread I would like to use on it, along with other thread. do I need a topstitch needle ? How large ? Any suggestions ? Otherwise this will get so frutstrating and thrown in a box somewhere. I did learn that I will always use steam a seam lite from now on, but I am hopeing to save this because it does look really cool. thank you for any suggestions. Ann

[Margo C.]

I would try a topstitch 80/12 to start with and see how that does. You may need to go up to a 90/14.
http://www.superiorthreads.com/shop/...ines/products/

[Margo C.]

thank you. I will give that a try tomorrow. I do need to do part of the quilt with invisible thread as well, but not very much. I would imagine that the 80/12 or 90/14 would work with that to?

[Margo C.]

I usually use the 70/10 size with MonoPoly or YLI nylon, but you may need to use the larger needle for all those thick layers. Good luck!

[Margo C.]

Thank you. I will let you know how it works or if I still have trouble.

[Terry K.]

If you have trouble with the needle gumming up even with a 90 topstitch, you could try a metallic needle as that kind of needle has a sharp piercing point. When I use sulkey thread, it shreads unless I use a size 90 topstitch.

[Anne B.]

The size of the needle is determined by the thickness of the thread, not the stiffness of the fabric.

When you've used a fusible product, your needle holes won't close up, and they'll show, so you want the smallest needle you can get by with. If you're using invisible thread, then you can use a size 10 needle. For Sulky Blendables, you'll need a size 12 needle, whether it's a topstitch or a sharp.

Next time you use a fusible, try cutting away the centre of each piece of fusible before you fuse it to the applique fabric. That way you'll only be fusing the outer edges of the shape to the fabric, leaving the centre of the shape soft. I hope this makes sense.

Good luck!

[Margo C.]

Great advice, Anne! Thanks!

[Margo C.]

thank you for all your advice. I will be giving it a try later today and hopefully have success with it. This project as often times, is a great learning experience. I already learned many things I will do differently next time. When you said topstitch or sharp needle are you referring to a metallic needle as the sharp? or is this another type of needle? What exactly is the difference? I thought the topstitch had a groove for the thread to follow. Does the have a groove and a larger hole in the needle? And what is a sharp? Ann

[Margo C.]

Ann, here is Dr. Bob's description of a topstitch needle's atributes:

http://www.superiorthreads.com/shop/...s/description/

The difference between a sharp needle and a universal needle is that a sharp one has a more pointed tip to pierce through the woven threads of the fabric. A universal needle is not quite as sharp and will sometimes pierce the threads, and sometimes not. A ball point needle is almost rounded and designed to slip between the woven threads and was developed to sew on knit fabrics and not split the threads. A line of stitching can sometimes look almost like a slightly zig-zag line.

For quilting, I always use a sharp (usually topstitch) needle in order to get as straight a stitching line as possible.

[Anne B.]

Ann, here is Dr. Bob's description of a topstitch needle's atributes:

http://www.superiorthreads.com/shop/...s/description/

The difference between a sharp needle and a universal needle is that a sharp one has a more pointed tip to pierce through the woven threads of the fabric. A universal needle is not quite as sharp and will sometimes pierce the threads, and sometimes not. A ball point needle is almost rounded and designed to slip between the woven threads and was developed to sew on knit fabrics and not split the threads. A line of stitching can sometimes look almost like a slightly zig-zag line.

For quilting, I always use a sharp (usually topstitch) needle in order to get as straight a stitching line as possible.

You're right, Margo. The other thing is that a sharp is a type of needle, not just a description. It's almost the same as microtex and jeans needles. I think the differences between the three have to do with the proportion of each needle as it slopes to form the tip. (Don't quote me.)

Ann, a topstitch needle also has a sharp point, just like the sharp, the microtex, and the jeans needles. But it has a deeper groove for the thread to lay in, and a larger eye, so it handles persnickety threads such as metallics and rayons better. Because they undergo less friction in this type of needle, they're less likely to fray.

Not all topstitch needles are titanium. The ones Dr. Bob is talking about are.

[Terry K.]

A topstitch needle has a rounded/sharp point as it is a combination of the ballpoint (rounded) and sharp (pointed) needles. I have given Bob's Superior Thread's titanium needles a test; but contrary to others' opinions, I find them to be dull. They create a larger hole than a regular topstitch needle and the sound the needle makes going through the fabric sounds like the needle is having a hard time penetrating the layers.

I keep going back to the metallic needle although sometimes I a microtex needle (for silk thread) will work too as it depends on what thread I'm using. These needles, at least for me, will produce a straighter line of stitching.

The sharper point of these needles will produce a smaller hole. I have found that washing the quilt after it is quilted helps reduce the holes as the cotton fibers tend to shrink slightly reducing the size of the hole. I say go to your local Joanne's type store when there is a sale for these items and buy several different types of needles and then experiement until you find the ones that work the best for you.

[Anne B.]

Thanks for correcting me about the point of a topstitch needle, Terry. I didn't know that.

Washing your finished quilt won't close the holes if they're in fabric that's been fused. They're there forever, because the fusible holds them in place. Unless you know something I don't.

[Susan B.]

Would some of the Sewer's Aid help stop the gumming? I'm curious if OESD's Fuse and Fix is going to present the same problems.

[Susan B.]

Hello everyone that has been so kind to offer advice. After repressing to make sure the glue was melted I started quilting on the project today using a microtex sharp 70/10 needle and sulky blendable thread. So far I have been using my walking foot for all the areas large enough to do smooth curving lines and I have had no problems at all. (Thank goodness !! ) I will be finishing that portion of the quilt tonight. Then its on to free motion thread painting and quilting. I am hoping I have the same luck with that as I had today. I did not do the area that will require invisible thread yet either. That portion will be around a face and into wrinkle lines. So far I am greatly relieved and pleased.