Longarm quilting problem

[Margo C.]

I recently purchased a Nolting 17"longarm quilting machine. I quilted my first one quilt without any problems (other than I need LOTS of practice to perfect technique!). I used Warm and White batting, King Tut thread with number 18 needles. THEN I quilted a second quilt using Kaffe Fassett fabric, again with 40 weight thread in both needle and bobbin, same Warm and White batting, adjusting tension etc. - however when I checked the back of my quilt when I advanced it on the frame I discovered that there were little specks of batting showing through at odd times! This did not happen with my first one. I changed needles ... re-checked my tension etc. I still had the problem, so I checked with my dealer and he said there was no problem with tension, needle selection and nothing wrong with timing of my machine as there were no missed stitches. He is seeking advice but in the meantime input from QUILTERS may help. SO - HELP PLEASE!! Has anyone experienced any such problems and do you have any suggestions as to what could be wrong. The batting was from exactly the same roll. As I am in Australia I do have limited avenues for advice. Will appreciate any suggestions you can make. Many thanks.http://forum/blogs-and-member-blogs-...nd-suggestions

[Eileen K.]

You're using the same batting; did you put it on the same way? Is there a scrim? If there is, it should be facing the backing. What kind of fabric are you using for the backing? How tight is the weave? Do you have any smaller needles-size 16?
It's so hard without seeing it. I hope you find a solution and please post it here when you do.

[Margo C.]

Hello Sunshine!

It is possible that you put the batting on your frame the first time with the (bumpy) scrim side down. The scrim is the layer on one side of the batting that sort of holds everything together with glue.
It sounds like you put the scrim side up on the second quilt and your needle punched the cotton batting through the backing. Most of those dots will probably not show up after the quilt is laundered. Here is some info you might find helpful:


http://www.warmcompany.com/wnpage.html
Our newly refined needlepunch technique better distributes the cotton on both sides of the scrim.

You might want to try their Warm Bond: http://www.warmcompany.com/warmbond.html
Warm Bond is the Warm Company's 80/20. Instead of using the non-woven polypropylene scrim that we use in Warm & Natural or glue like other bonded batting use, our poly fiber is manufactured to melt when it is run through a gentle heating process known as calendaring.

I highly recommend that you check out Machine Quilter's Resource for a fabulous source of information and inspiration for long arm quilters:http://mqresource.com/forum/index.php?app=ccs

Like TQS, you need to "join" the web site, but joining is free. However, you will definitely benefit from joining as a Premier member so you can take advantage of the fabulous videos showing lots of long arm techniques!

Enjoy!!

[Margo C.]

Thank you SO MUCH Eileenkny & Margot - you can probably tell I am new to all of this! Firstly I did not know the importance of which way the batting was placed!!! (How dumb can a person be??). So thank you heaps for that. I have no idea which way the batting faced on the first quilt as it is now bound. However as it transpires the "problem" quilt does have what appears to be the fluffier side up and scrim side facing downwards onto the backing although the difference is barely noticeable. The backing fabric I used was Westminster Fibers Kaffe Fassett (as was almost the whole quilt top) so the quality of the weave should not be the problem. The colour was the hot pink/red version so little specks would show up more. The first one was cream backing but I have inspected it closely and there was nothing at all showing. I did not go any smaller with the needle size because the King Tut was 40 weight and their recommended size was 18 or 19. Margot - thank you for the batting website information etc. and I will certainly check them. One thought I had was that I have had this batting length for a few years so perhaps it has deteriorated???? But then my first quilt should have had the same problem!!!I will try a sample piece on my Nolting with the batting facing each way - the machine is still set up exactly as I left it when I finished quilting the quilt. I agree with you that it must be a batting problem because the little "bits"which come through are just like the teeny little bonding beads. I will try to do this sample test over the weekend and let you know how it goes. Again - many many thanks for your help.

[Eileen K.]

i just had another thought. How old is your needle? How much quilting did you do between the two quilts? Some quilters change needles with every quilt, I change about once a week or so because I use the titanium ones. Years ago, I had the batting poke through the backing because the needle had gotten dull. There's also the chance of getting a bad needle or a bad pack.
Just a thought.
BTW, you want the scrim facing the backing, so you should be able to rule that out.

[Eileen K.]

Thanks eileen - one of the first things I did was change needles and even went from 19 down to 18. Did not go any lower because they were the recommended needle sizes for the King Tut I was using. I am wondering if the batting had deteriorated because it was a length I had for a few years - but again, it was same one I used for first quilt. The only difference I can see is that I think I used a 50 thread thread in the bobbin for the first one. I really do not think that would have caused that problem though because my Nolting man said that my tension was OK. I showed him the problem quilt and the one before as he was visiting Brisbane for a Quilt/Craft show. He is also investigating for me. Appreciate your input - thanks.

[Eileen K.]

Thank you eileenkny and Margot - I tried a sample on the weekend with strips of batting facing both ways. Surprising thing was that what I considered scrim side down still showed the batting specks ... while the other was clear. So - a million thanks! I am actually visiting Houston for Quilt Festival and will take this sample to Warm and Natural booth and get them to help me with this. Obviously it was a batting problem - so happy it was not going to be a problem with my new machine. I have only quilted two quilts on it!!!! Cheers, and once again, many thanks for your help. This is first post I have done on the Quilt Show and I am very grateful to a friend who suggested I use this method to seek help! Sunshinesheila.

[Barbara C.]

Just a thought....... Is there a chance you have your fabric rolled too tight? When I was a newbie I tended to make this mistake.

[Barbara C.]

Thank you bar7700 - as you can see by my last post, I am sure I have the problem solved. As I said - I did a sample with strip pieces of batting side by side and placed facing both ways and on one side the flecks showed, and on the other it was fine. I am going to establish just which side Warm and Natural class as their scrim side and then I will be set. There was not much difference and I was not the only one who thought I had placed it scrim side down. That was the problem way with my sample too - so obviously I need to check with the company. Many thanks for your input - I am aware of the tension on the frame being an issue and make sure it is OK.

[Barbara C.]

You are welcome! Your problem has been a help to me by the way..... I have never given it a thought which way the scrim was! I had your problem once but it was so long ago I can't remember what brand batting I was using. It only happened once so I have never thought about it again and chalked it up to having my fabric rolled so tight you could bounce a dime on it. ;-)

[Barbara C.]

When I look at the Warm and Natural, I don't see a difference between the two sides. Is one side more shiny? I just discovered the "scrim issue" on the APQS site (Dawn Cavanaugh). I had never heard about the difference, and neither had several of my friends. That's why communication between quilters is so important, so we can learn from each other. And that's why this Forum is great, I've learned so much here.

[Barbara C.]

Hi Terrina,

My question is SO OLD I got quite a surprise to receive your post. After all the above chatter (I am an Australian!) I actually went to Houston that year and spoke to the batting company and they showed me how to tell. Yes - I could not really tell the difference as to which was the scrim side on the warm and natural. I was shown how to take the corner and "peel back"and essentially when you do that you can see that one side does have a sort of "film" and that is the scrim! Since getting all this information and I have quilted several quilts on my longarm and have not had any problems. Some of the battings I have found have a more obvious scrim side, but my warm and natural did not. I agree - the forum saved my sanity and I am most definitely the wiser for all the information. It is quite amazing the number of my quilting friends who had no idea about the scrim being the side to go down. We just tended to put what looked to be the smoother side down ... but in the warm and natural situation I had it was totally the opposite. Happy quilting and glad my problem has helped yet another person. Cheers. and Happy Christmas from "Down Under"!!