spray basting

[Alex A.]

Tried spray basting for the first time. the spray seemed to "draw up" or wrinkle my layers. the wrinkles then were glued together and impossible to ease out as i tried to quilt. i had to go back and secure all with safety pins. anyone else have problems?

[Teri L.]

Too much adhesive used and overly smoothing out (stretching the fabric) will case this.
When spraying, go lightly.
When smoothing the quilt, just press it down firmly but not like you're kneading bread dough. It's a firm but not hard touch.

Teri

[Beth A.]

Agree with Terri. I spray baste all the time, and too much smoothing can cause problems. It finally looks smooth on the top side, but you have goofed up the back side.

Just pat it down.

Remember: SLIGHT bubbles quilt out.

BethMI

[Paula D.]

O.K. Just bought my first can of 505 ($15!!). Please, more hints from the experts out there. I plan to use Patsy's wall method. How soon after you spray do you have to place the next layer on? Any other tricks, etc. from the veteran sprayers out there would be most appreciated. Thanks in advance, Paula.

[Beth A.]

Go ahead and use your 505, but know that I never buy that expensive stuff. I stick with the much cheaper Sullivan's or June Tailor, the other big name brand.

I did buy the Dritz "house brand" at Joann's, and that was the only one I was dissatisfied with. It didn't stick.

Next time, try either Sullivan's or June Tailor and see if you notice any difference from the 505. I didn't.

BethMI

[Judy R.]

Hi--The 505 is expensive, but I do like it better than the others because it doesn't gum up your machine as much. I have tried different methods of spraying, but this one works best:

I do my spraying flat on a table or floor with protection (large sheet under it). I pin the top of the back to the batting--roll the back up--then start spraying the batting very lightly with a sweeping motion approximately12" strip of the batting--then roll down 12" of the backing and smooth--continue in the same way until completely done.

Turn over and do the top the same way. Afterwards, if the back is wrinkled--I iron it lightly to smooth it out then sometimes I pin in several places just to make sure it doesn't shift. Anyway, works for me most of the time!

[Judy M.]

Teri, I assume I shouldn't pull my backing "taut" with tape or pins as I do for regular thread or pin basting? I'm still uneasy about possibly gumming up my Bernina, but I used the 505 spray in my Bernina class and didn't have any trouble. Is the secret to spray very LIGHTLY? Judy in Torrance

[Judy M.]

I use the 505 spray and when I took my 440 in for its check up the tech said that he's never seen such a clean machine.

Jean in Windsor, ON

[Judy R.]

I don't pull my backing taut--just pin it to hold in place when spraying--mainly to ensure that it stays straight. I have used 505 for a long time and also have a Bernina 440. My tech has never said anything about a problem with the spray buildup.

The other brands hold o.k. but seem to really gum up the needle on my machine.


Judy

[Judy R.]

I use 505 and like it much better than other brands that gum up the the needle more and don't spray as evenly. Never have had any problems with my machine with it either.

[Anne B.]

I like the 505 best because it's acid-free and will hold indefinitely. I may be mistaken, but I don't think the Sullivan's is acid-free. The Sulky spray is designed to release after a couple of weeks. I take so long to quilt a quilt that I'd find this most frustrating. Neither the 505 nor the Sulky spray gums up the needle, in my experience.

I smooth out my quilt backing on a table or carpet. I tape it down if it's on a table, but not if it's on a carpet, because it sticks to the carpet and doesn't really move.

Then I lay the batting on top of the backing.

Once the batting is smooth, I fold half of it back and spray about 12 inches of the backing. I carefully lay the batting down and smooth it out again. If I get a wrinkle in it, I peel it up and carefully lay it down again. It seems to help to settle the batting onto the backing from above, rather than dragging it across the sprayed surface.

Then I lift the batting again, spray another 12 inches of backing, carefully lay the batting down again, smooth it out again, and so on.

When I've done the first half of the batting, I do the second half, again working from the centre to the end of the quilt.

Once the backing is in place, I repeat the whole performance with the quilt top. If it's a large quilt, when I'm done I insert safety pens every six inches or so. Don't know if I need them, but I'd rather be safe than sorry.

The overspray is a pain to try to clean up, so I always put a piece of newspaper or cardboard under the edges of whatever I'm spraying. When I do get it on a table, I can't get it off with anything other than the DK5 spray that's made especially to remove basting spray from hard surfaces. Not even nail polish remover seems to touch it.

Anne in Vancouver, Canada, a confirmed spray baster

[Anne B.]

I don't pull my backing taut--just pin it to hold in place when spraying--mainly to ensure that it stays straight. I have used 505 for a long time and also have a Bernina 440. My tech has never said anything about a problem with the spray buildup.

The other brands hold o.k. but seem to really gum up the needle on my machine.


Judy

I have a question since I'll be basting my quilt soon. When you spray baste, why don't you pull your backing taut?

[Anne B.]

I dig it. When you pull the back taught, it springs back when released. This causes the wrinkles that I'm getting. I think I'll try on a very small project like a table runner before doing it again. Should never try something new without properly testing!!!! Thanks for all the help and tips!

[Frances L.]

Where do I find Patsy's wall method of spray basting?

[Karen M.]

Frances -go to the classrooms section at the top of the page and click on Patsy's section...it is named "Spray Basting"....it is very good.