foundations/stabilizers

[Norma H.]

Ricky's Stable Stuff Poly is out of stock. I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions for another printable foundation paper? Also, I have a brand new 830 and plan to use the embroidery unit as much as possible, for the blocks that are going to be made in the hoop will I need additional stabilizer (I'm a newbie to embroidery)? And, for the applique that will be done in the hoop will we need a fusible?
Thanks!
Kari

[Annis C.]

Perfect Piecing by June Tailor is on sale at Jo-Ann's (http://www.joann.com/joann/catalog/p...ID=xprd1002406).

[Sarah V.]

Hi Serin10,

Yes - you will need additional stabilizer to do the applique in the hoop. My recommendation would be to buy a 20" wide roll of OESD Ultra Clean and Tear. It's about $22 for a 10 yard roll and you will probably only need 1 roll. This is the stabilizer that you will use in the hoop.

For the applique, you will need to use a fusible webbing on the back of the applique fabric (apply before cutting). My favorite is Shades Softfuse.

Hope this helps!
Sarah :-)

[Sarah V.]

In the past I've always used regular paper for paper piecing. Can someone tell me the advantages of a printable stabilizer? Or is plain old paper ok? It seemed to work fine on all my other paper pieced quilts.

[Sarah V.]

Denise - regular paper works just fine for paper piecing. A lot of what you will be doing for this quilt is applique - and you really want a stabilizer foundation for that, not regular paper. For the applique, some of the "foundation" will stay in the quilt - hence the need for stabilizer rather than paper.

I hope this helps!
Sarah :-)

[Sarah V.]

Denise - regular paper works just fine for paper piecing. A lot of what you will be doing for this quilt is applique - and you really want a stabilizer foundation for that, not regular paper. For the applique, some of the "foundation" will stay in the quilt - hence the need for stabilizer rather than paper.

I hope this helps!
Sarah :-)

I was following along fine until this message - now I am confused. Start with month 1 - is paper ok for the paper piecing this month? If not, please explain which parts and why (not because I question you, but because I sincerely want to know.) Ricky's Stable Stuff is sold out, and although I have found it else where it cost several more dollars per package - plus it is rather expensive for something we are just going to rip out ...

Thank-you for all your patience.
You are being very generous to take the time to answer all of our questions.
Kari

[Chris T.]

I am also a little confused. I already have a pack of paper for foundation piecing which I thought I would use for the paper/foundation piecing. Am I not likely to use this? Are we to use stabiliser throughout?

[Sarah V.]

Regular paper is fine for paper piecing as it all gets removed from the finished quilt top.

When you are doing applique, you want to use a stabilizer as some of the stabilizer will still be in the quilt when you are done - primarily under the stitching that finishes the edge of the applique shape. When I am doing embroidered applique, I leave all of the stabilizer that is underneath an applique shape in place - I only remove the excess from around the applique shapes.

For month 1
- template 1 can be printed onto regular paper as this is a paper pieced block.
- template 2 really needs to be printed onto stabilizer as there is applique to do as well as paper piecing.
- template 3 could be regular paper, although it is much easier to do with stabilizer as the stabilizer will be a lot softer than paper.
- template 4 can be printed onto regular paper as it is a paper pieced block.

For month 2 you really want to use stabilizer as this is an appliqued block - with a paper pieced border on it! If you leave the stabilizer in place when you add the blocks to the quilt top then everything goes together so much more easily.

For months 3, 4 and 5, you could print template 1 for each of these months onto paper. I would use stabilizer for template 2 so that you can leave this in the quilt to help with quilt construction.

Does this make any sense?
Sarah :-)

[Sarah V.]

I am a tad confused.
If I am going to be doing applique, why do I need stabilizer- and would I have to be sewing through the stabilizer.
I will be needle turning.
I can see using the stabilizer to keep the shape of the block intact, but why else. I definitely don't want to sew through more layers.
Why don't I cut the background a bit larger, then iron the template onto the back with freezer paper, to give me the accurate shape to cut out?

[Sarah V.]

I believe I understand. Paper will work for any block that does not contain applique. Stable Stuff type stabilizer for all blocks that contain machine applique but if you choose to needle turn then you could use the simple paper. Also, any block that we utilize our embroidery machines would require embroidery stabilizer. Correct?

Thank-you again for all of your help. I am so excited to start - just waiting for my fabric to get here. (I'm running to the door every day like a kid on Christmas!)
Kari

[Sarah V.]

The stabilizer is required if you are doing applique by machine ("regular" or embroidery machine). If you are doing needle turn (i.e. hand?) then you won't need stabilizer under the background fabric.

If you are doing the applique in the hoop on an embroidery machine then you will need extra stabilizer to go in the hoop.

[Chris T.]

Hi Serin10,

Yes - you will need additional stabilizer to do the applique in the hoop. My recommendation would be to buy a 20" wide roll of OESD Ultra Clean and Tear. It's about $22 for a 10 yard roll and you will probably only need 1 roll. This is the stabilizer that you will use in the hoop.

For the applique, you will need to use a fusible webbing on the back of the applique fabric (apply before cutting). My favorite is Shades Softfuse.

Hope this helps!
Sarah :-)

Thanks for your replies and help here. Could I ask why we need two different stabilisers. I'm guessing the first one is non fusible but just checking. Also, maybe a long shot but any idea of equivalents available in the UK. Thanks

[Sarah V.]

You only need 2 stabilizers if you are doing the applique blocks in the hoop on an embroidery machine. Either way, you need a medium weight tear away stabilizer.

If you email Katherine at quiltdirect.com she will be able to tell you about the stabilizers available in the UK. She had a good one that I used when I was at the Festival of Quilts in August.

[Sarah V.]

It seems the more I read this posting, the more confused I become! LOL

Let's see if I get this:

For the plain paper piecing parts, regular paper is fine. (Like the center star and the log cabin style points in month one)

For the applique parts (not embroidered), a stabilizer like Ricky's Stable Stuff is recommended. And then, after it's printed, it needs to have a fusible added onto the back of it before cutting it out to use. But how does the applique fabric stay on the stabilizer? Should that be fused onto the fabric and then run through the printer or fused on after it's printed? Then does more fusible need to be on the other of the printed stabilizer so it can be stuck to the background fabric? (I am thinking of the dots on the ring in month one) And where are the templates for the 18 dots for month one? Should we be printing off a second copy of the template rings to use for the dots?

Oh my, I think I am confusing myself even more!! :shock: ops:

Another thought about Stable Stuff: If we use it and leave it in the quilt, will it be noticeable in the areas it is in -- meaning will it look a bit filled. So we should only use it in those areas we want that look in, not in the flatter or 'background' fabrics. Just thinking here... which might be a scary thought in itself!! LOL

[Margo C.]

Michelle, I don't know how much you can tell from this photo, but all of the applique in this quilt has Stable Stuff foundation with turned edges and machine appliqued with a small zig-zag stitch done with MonoPoly. There is a little dimension to the pieces, but it does not look stuffed.

(You can click on the photo two times for a closer look.)