Another appliqué question - edges not quite sealed?

[Andree B.]

I may be late in asking this question, but up until now, I thought it was "normal". However, now, I have my doubts...

I use Soft Fuse by Shades Textiles , and I followed the directions very carefully, as a few of you mentionned the importance. However, In a few instances, the edges of my appliqué were not quite sealed:

I now have little lashed I have to cut...

Any idea? Am I too perfectionnist or does this happen normally?

If you have a tip to share, that would be most welcomed... Still a lot to appliqué....

Thanks!
(by the way, it gets worse when the needle comes closer to that point)

Andrée

[Barb A.]

Andree, I did turned-edge on mine for this very reason. Last year I did a Baltimore quilt using raw-edge applique and used both Steam-a-Seam2 and WonderUnder - they each performed the same for me, just like you are seeing with your product.

After I completed the applique stitching on the Baltimore quilt, I went back around every edge with tiny sharp applique scissors and snipped loose threads. Actually, it looks fine, but I haven't quilted or washed the quilt yet; so I can't give a final report on the success of the effort.

The instructions for Two of Us do specify applique stitch width and length - you might make a practice flower and experiment with your stitch width and length to see what you like the best, in terms of appearance vs. security.

Sorry I'm not more helpful - maybe others will have some tips for you.


Barb in Alabama

[ANNE E.]

Would starching the fabric help ???
Anne

[Andree B.]

I starched all my fabric. These lashes appeared when I pulled the paper off.

Andrée

[Nancy R.]

Are these lashes at the point where you are starting to separate the paper from the fabric? How are you doing this? A lot of teachers tell you to score the center of the paper with a pin and start pulling the paper off from there. That reduces the handling of the edges of the fabric. Don't know if that helps.

Nancy

[Nancy R.]

I don't usually do fusible applique just for this reason. I really don't like those little fuzzys. I will say that I believe the tighter the weave of a fabric, the less it happens. Anyone else have any thoughts?

[Betty J.]

Nancy has it right....if you score the middle and remove the backing from the center out (slowly and carefullly) there is less distress on the applique. Then when ironing, lightly iron it in place first, and when it's just where I want it, I give it a shot of steam. That makes it permanent.

I then use a much smaller, closer together, blanket stitch, or even double blanket stitch when stitching it down, running the edge close to the edge of the applique. This method usually makes the edges as invisible as if you turned them. If your blanket stitch is too big or far apart, or you leave a small gap between your fabric and the edge of the stitch pattern, you get those fuzzies. I did some testing just to see.

But if your applique is the type that could be easily turn-edged, then you can pre-turn edge them with stable stuff and glue or some such and stitch with a very small hem stitch and closely matched 60 or 100 weight thread and it will look almost hand appliqued. Hope this helps.

[Rita C.]

Andreé I had this happen a lot with this project. I found that it was the Bondaweb (Wonder Under) that was the worst. The best solution I found was to do double blanket stitch around everything and that sorted most of it out. I did go back once I had stitched all the pieces down and used a tweezers to get any stray whiskers off. The other thing I will say to you is that if you are not using a Microtex needle maybe you would consider one. I use a 70/10 or an 80/12. These needles seem to pierce the fabric without splitting it. The other suggestion is to take your needle another thread over to the right as you are stitching so that it definitely goes into the background fabric only. I hope some of this helps. I finally got all my pieces ironed on the last two borders today - exhausting. Now I just have to stitch them all down. :roll:

[Andree B.]

Thanks everyone!

What bothers me is that I followed carefully all the steps from the teacher (Sue Nickels) but since this happens before the stitching, it must be the way I handle the fusible. I removed the paper carefully, but not enough it seems. This doesn't happen with Lite steam-a-seam, so I think i'll do top border with this.

Once it is sewn with the blanket stitch, it seems pretty solid, except thoses little lashes that are coming out of the appliqué.... AHHHH this one needs a lot of patience!

Thanks again!

Andrée

[Judith A.]

Edyta Sitar wrote about this in her new book Seasonal Silhouettes.
Edyta said she uses these fusible webs most often with raw edge applique:
1. HeatnBond Light, which she says "gives a clean, sharp raw edge", but warns against over-pressing it, which can make quilting more difficult.
2. SteamASeam 2, which she says can be repositioned easily, but notes that over time it gives the edges a medium fray.
3. WonderUnder 805. She finds that edges fray the most with this one, but it is easy to trace on and quilt through. '

She says to experiment with different brands and weights.
I didn't know fusible web products were all so different.

Here are a few things I have learned.
Use a fabric with a tight weave. Batiks as a rule, have a tighter weave and tend to fray less than a lot of printed fabrics. (The exception to thi rule would be some cheap loosely woven batiks at chain stores that would be awful to work with.)
Some fusible webs come with instructions to prewash fabrics to remove any finishes on the fabric that might prevent a good bond.
Don't use fabric softener.
Be careful not to overpress the fusible and applique too long, especially with an iron that is too hot. This causes the applique to feel stiff and hard, and makes it harder to quilt through.
If I am raw-edge appliqueing and I have a fabric that wants to fray, I trim off the little tips of thread that stick out, and put a thin coat of June Taylors Fray-Block on the cut edge, let it dry thoroughly and then machine applique it down. I only put it on the cut edge. I like this brand, because it dries soft and flexible and dries clear with no discoloration.

Judy Austin

[Margo C.]

Just one reason why I don't like fusible appliqué .

[Margo C.]

Just one reason why I don't like fusible appliqué .

Think I will join you in that camp.

[Betty J.]

And this is an example of why I would not want to do without fusibles...LOL :shock: 8) :lol: :lol:

Of course, I appreciate the turned edge too, when feasible. In fact, the edges of the mountains are turned and machine stitched.

[Deborah W.]

I almost always do machine applique with fusible but usually do a satin stitch so the little lashes don't really cause a problem.

[Deborah W.]

I think turned edge and fusible have their own strengths and weaknesses depending on the project. SewDreamy, that is fabulous!

I like batiks best for raw edge too for their tight weave and fray resistance. I don't starch fabrics that I am going to fuse (assuming it didn't get starched as it went into the stash long before being chosen for a fusible project!) since I worry that the starch may interfere with a good bond.

Good blanket stitching or satin stitching (or even a decorative stitch) covers a multitude of whiskers.