Help with Feb. block

[Kathryn S.]

I'm catching up here, just finished the 4 patch border. As I was sewing the 4 patches with their triangles together, I decided not to press anything until the entire border was sewn. Then, I marked the ironing board with the "correct" border lengths, and very carefully pressed the border to that length. This is instead of my usual press, probably distort, and then measure at the end, hoping it comes out ok.

This is such a great project for learning how to cut accurately and sew with a true 1/4" seam allowance. I'm using a sewing machine that has a quarter-inch foot with a vertical bar along the right hand side, and have never been able to get it quite right. This time, I did samples before the actual sewing, figured out how to get it at 1/4", and measured the finished 4 patches.

Thank you, Sue Garman!

Kathy

[Susan B.]

I'm way behind because of shoulder surgery, but have completed the four-patch strips, sewed the first floaters & the shorter 4-patch strips. My question is, if you sew with the floater on top, how do you make sure that you are outside the intersection of the setting triangles so they don't get chopped off against the floater? I'm really new to quilting, so the precision of the setting triangles was tough. I had to change to a straight stitch throatplate because this new fancy schmancy 9mm Bernini kept eating points. Some of the points are perfect, some a little dull. I'm tempted to just live with it because my outside measurements are ok & this will never go in a quilt show, but I'd like to know for future projects. Additionally, I've noticed that if the two off white background fabrics are very close in value, the points don't show up in the pictures. Mine do have a bit of contrast.

[Pat L.]

Don't know whether this will help or not with your machine "chewing up the points" but I noticed Alex when doing an episode of TQS demo was sewing off and onto small folded scraps of fabric - so I tried this (usually keep scraps of muslim handy) and it works great - just "butt" up to the squares you are sewing on and off off (I try to chain piece as many of these parts as possible when doing these ST sqaures) and it really does elminate your machine needle pushing the fabric down into the hole and makes things go much smoother. Works well for me!

[Pat L.]

My question is, if you sew with the floater on top, how do you make sure that you are outside the intersection of the setting triangles so they don't get chopped off against the floater?

I ran into the same problem with some of my four patches, but not with my sawtooth stars because by then I realized that I had to ensure that my measurements allowed for a generous 1/4" seam from the points when I squared up my blocks. Hopefully, this helps.

[Margo C.]

My question is, if you sew with the floater on top, how do you make sure that you are outside the intersection of the setting triangles so they don't get chopped off against the floater?

Susan, go to "Alex's Classroom" videos and watch the ones from June 2008 where she shows how she does her Leymone Star blocks. She shows you exactly how to pin the points so that you don't chop them off!! Different block, same technique.
(Access them on the Home Page....just click on the Icon for her classroom and scroll all the way down the page to last summer.)

And Sewbearnuts suggestion for starting with a scrap of fabric is exactly the cure for chewed up starts!

Good luck!

[Annis C.]

suehenyon wrote:
[My question is, if you sew with the floater on top, how do you make sure that you are outside the intersection of the setting triangles so they don't get chopped off against the floater?]


I sometimes don't follow the instructions and put the floater on the bottom so I can see my points. If the floater finishes less than 1 inch it's better to sew it on top though. Measure to make sure your seam allowance outside the point is exactly 1/4". If it's more than that trim off the excess, if less when you pin the blocks to the floater scoot it slightly away from the edge. Also it's good to have a 1/4" line extending in front of the needle for lining up your fabric. You will get a more consistent 1/4" seam allowance instead of just depending on your 1/4" seam foot. If all else fails you could always do a little seam ripping and resewing!

[Susan B.]

Thank you all for your suggestions. Annis, when you say 1/4" in front of the needle, are you thinking about a marking coming out in front of the presser foot to line the fabric up against an extended line? I'm thinking I'll try that. I remember someone stacking up a bunch of post-it notes for a ledge as a guide. I had forgotten about Alex's three pin method for the intersection. At this point, I have the February round done, it's to the point I can live with it, knowing it won't win the county fair blue ribbon, but it's square. Onward...thanks!

[Susan B.]

Addendum: actually, it was a hunk of blue painter's tape that made the guide in front of the presser foot.

[Margo C.]

Addendum: actually, it was a hunk of blue painter's tape that made the guide in front of the presser foot.

A guide like that works great for straight seams....not so good if you are doing curved seams, though!

[Annis C.]

I don't use a raised seam guide. I like a flat surface because my pin heads are usually sticking out on the right side. There are several companies that make seam guides that attach to the sewing machine bed that have the 1/4" line. I make one myself but am only selling it locally right now. But all you really need is a piece of blue masking tape with a line straight out from the needle and another line 1/4" away for guiding your fabric. Use different colors of permanent ink for the lines. I use red for the one coming out from the needle and black for the 1/4" line. If you place a piece of clear packaging tape over the masking tape it will give it a slicker finish and the fabric will feed smoothly. Just be sure to cut the excess packaging tape away so it won't come in contact with your machine. If you have a top loading bobbin this may not work for you.

[Susan B.]

I want you all to know how much you are appreciated. I spent Friday night doing the 1/4" checking AgaiN ( I thought I was so good to go), and was shocked (using Margo's test in her tutorial) with how far off I was. basically, this render's my quarter inch foot with the edge useless. I'm happy to say that I completed 4 sawtooth stars that came out perfectly. My sewing table has a beautifully decorated new blue stripe. I also learned how to stream basketball game video into my sewing room on my laptop (grin). My Maryland women's team rocks!

[Margo C.]

Good for you, Susan! Checking your accuracy will DEFINITELY help when it comes time to assemble all the sampler blocks that we make in the next 6 months!! Glad you found out what works for you!

[Annis C.]

Margo does wonderful tutorials. I forgot to tell you the instructions for the masking tape seam guide were in her tutorial. I'm happy you found it and it worked for you. For instructions on making a guide with multiple seam allowances see my blogs on March 21 which were inspired by your question. Don't you like it how one thing leads to another. Sharing ideas with each other makes us better quilters.

[Frances L.]

So was I the only one who had four patches left over after making my borders? I have the correct number on each side, but have some left over.
Frances in Austin

[Frances L.]

Frances, my number of four patches came out exactly right. Are you sure you didn't accidentally make more than you needed? Anyway, better to have too many than too few, right?