Wishes Wool Applique Project - QUESTIONS

[Kristin G.]

Have a question about Alex's Wool Applique Project? Post it here!

[Kristin G.]

ERRATA FOR THE WISHES WOOL APPLIQUE KIT

It has come to our attention that the large charcoal gray background fabric in your kit is 0.5 inches smaller on one side than what’s listed in the pattern. Don’t worry though — this small difference won’t affect the final outcome of your project at all!

We know how much we all love things to be just right in quilting (looking at you, 1/4" seam!), but this time it’s a little more relaxed.

Please use the fabric as it is; your finished quilt will still turn out beautiful and just as planned.

Thank you for trusting the process!

[Laura B.]

How do I post a photo from my android phone

Do I use a stabilizer on the back of the large pieced wool background? If so, what do you recommend?

[Alex A.]

when working with wool - no need for stabilizer

[KayeT]

ok. I admit I am probably over thinking this too much, but was trying to get the background sewn ( the 3 pieces across and then bigger one below. So the top left and the big one below are both in the charcoal? same fabric? and it states finished size so I expect I cut 1/2" bigger all around for the seam allowances? First time doing wool, so working a bit slower here. Also, should we do the green around the outside now? or wait? Also unclear about the size for the green? states .5 wide, so cut 1" strips?
TIA and sorry for the long winded questions

[Helen W.]

This is not really a question, just a comment. When I taped the papers of the pattern together I first noticed there are
no numbers for placement order and no dashes for added seam allowance when it goes under another piece. My guess
is that you just follow the way Sue Spargo does it for wool applique. She does not give the order of putting pieces down
on the background, or any way of showing that a piece goes under the edge of another piece. I plan to study the pattern
and then use a red sharpie to make the number and the under laying seams. HelenW

[Alex A.]

You are correct Helen. The thing about this pattern is that nothing is exact - which is so different thea we are used to when piecing.

Also when the greys are sewn together and the cotton parch is added - time to stop. We will address the green down the road

[Alex A.]

kay - I used a 1/4" seam. That was my preference. Also, from what I can assess the grey pieces are darned near cut to size. About the green edge - that is for lata.

I just received the kit. Now what? Am I waiting for a first class or am I supposed to go ahead and begin on my own?

[Barbara B.]

Watch Alex’s classroom sessions to see the plan so far.

[Ursula C.]

Just saw the second video and like to know: if we use Sue Spargo Wool should we cut the stems "in curved lines" for example with freezer paper like the flowers and leaves or can we cut simply stripes and tear/form them in the certain direction?

[Helen W.]

Ursula, I have never heard of anyone tearing wool. I don't think it works like it does with cotton.
Alex said in the Live that you could just cut strips, but it would also work with freezer paper.
HelenW

[Helen W.]

A comment, not a question. Carole Berry mentioned on the LIVE that Sue Spargo uses wool matching thread and does the
whip stitch to secure the piece of wool to the background. I am a newbie to wool, but have been watching lots of Sue Spargo
videos. Her reason for using the whip stitch instead of applique stitch on the wool, is because the wool is not as stable around
the raw edge, so it needs a deeper bite into with the thread. I looked for a screen shot of what the stitch looks like so you could
see it. Normally when you do it, you match the thread to the wool, and you don't see it. Alex, said with her applique stitch
you could just see the indent of the thread on the wool. I found that you won't even see the indent if you using a little looser
tension when pull the stitch thru. Just thought this info would be of interest. HelenW

The screen shot was from the website Fig Tree and Company.

Click on the photo to enlarge.

[Connie H.]

Thanks Helen! that pic is very helpful.

[Alex A.]

The stems do not have to be cut on the bias - the wool stem will bend easily into shape.

[Helen W.]

Alex, Wonder if Jamie Davis technique for ruching a flower would work
or the white circle in your pattern Wishes??? HelenW

[Candace D.]

As a newbie to appliqué, I was wondering if people are sewing a blind/invisible stitch to attach the cotton background to the wool or are you using an appliqué stitch that will show up?

[Helen W.]

Candace D., I used the invisible stitch to attach the cotton to the background. It is just the applique
stitch that only shows a dot of thread on the fold, then you drop the needle into the background
right beside that dot, and travel on the underside about 1/8 to 1/4 inch and make the next dot
by coming up on the edge of the fold.
Sue Spargo does needle turn on all cotton seam allowances. It looks the same whether
you do needle turn or just regular already folded seam allowance.
Helen

[Sandy F.]

I’m still appliquéing my shapes to background but have a question. Do you or can you use a hoop when embroidering on wool?

[Helen W.]

Hi Sandy, Thought someone with knowledge would answer your question. I googled it and it
appears the loose weave of wool will cause distortion if hooped. You might try a loose hoop,
don't crank it down like a drum and be sure to unhoop as soon as you finish stitching. Never seen
Sue Spargo use one in all the videos I have been watching. I sit my large wool mat on a large
floor hoop and work on top of that. Right height and a place to rest my forearms. I lay the background out flat and rotate as I need to change the angle that I am stitching. HelenW

[Sandy F.]

Thanks Helen. I don’t typically use a hoop but then I have always worked with cottons. There are a lot of French Knots and I thought it would be easier to use a hoop. You will laugh but I have a large Pokemon stuffy that I rest my work on and its perfect height.